Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

Saturday, January 19, 2013

Back To Work

So after nearly four long months of waiting, I am ready to start back up on the boat. While I knew there would be a waiting period back in August of last year when I started the boat, I did not expect it to be completely void of activity. However, things being what they were, that's the way it turned out.

But now, the funds will be available in a week or two at the most so I can start planing on the next steps in the process. When activity ceased in October, the plan was to save up enough to purchase the epoxy glue and assemble the frames parts I had already created. Because it is still fairly cold here and I don't expect that to change for at least another month, I have decided to complete making the other frame parts instead.

That means frames 1 , 2 and the transom. Today, I had a bit of time so I started developing a layout plan for these parts so that I can determine how much wood to purchase. The wood will be the same as used for the other frame parts, 1 inch African Mahogany, which is a final planed thickness of 3/4 inches.

The transom frame is a bit tricky to determine actual size because that frame will be mounted at a 12 degree angle in relation to the boat.That means that the bottom edge of the frame will be beveled . The plans give the dimensions to the outside of the transom. Since the transom is angled backwards on the boat, that means the inner face of the frame will actually be slightly bigger than the outer face (because of the bevel mentioned previously)

Here is a crude drawing illustrating what I am talking about.:

I tackled the layout pattern in a fairly simple manner. The plans show the shapes of the frame parts in a 1 inch equals 1 foot scale. I simply traced the frame parts and then using a architects scale, I drew a 10 foot board in the same scale on a piece of paper. I then cut out the frame parts and arranged them on the scaled board so they would all fit. I plan on buying boards 11 to 12 inches wide.

For purposes of determining the layout pattern for the transom, it was only necessary to estimate the extra material needed to allow for the inner face and draw that part slightly larger on the edge where the extra wood is needed.

So this isn't a lot of work accomplished but it is a necessary step in order to purchase the correct size and amount of lumber. Others may use a different means of establishing this criteria, but this is what I used. I am certainly open to other suggestions if someone wants to comment on that.

This coming week I will be contacting a local lumber yard and making the purchase. Once I have the lumber in hand, I can start the process of making these final frame parts. So until next time.........

Update 1/20/2013

Had a little time today so I laid out and cut out the two side pieces for the transom. That was all I had enough lumber for until I purchase the next batch in the next week or so. These are the first new pieces I have made using my revised technique developed when I ran into the snag with undersized parts back in September 2012.

So I thought I would provide a brief description of the technique I used. Basically, using the dimensions from the plans, I laid out the keel, chine , and sheer points for this frame (Frame 0) on my white assembly board. Then I took tracing paper and taped it together so it was long enough to lay over the chine and sheer points on the layout board. I had previously laid out a line designating the inner edge of the frame part when making previous frames.

I marked these two points and the inner edge on the tracing paper. Next I laid the tracing paper over the full size pattern, lining up the chine and sheer points . From there I traced the curve of the outer edge and the two end edges. I now had a traced version of the frame parts. The inner edge of the parts are a straight line.

Next I taped carbon paper to the tracing paper, face up across the curved edge and the two ends. Then the tracing paper was placed , carbon side down on the wood lining up the straight inner edge with the straight edge of the lumber. Finally, I ran a pencil over the curved edge line as well as the two ends which transferred the lines to the wood.

Here is a picture showing the tracing pattern on the wood.

After that it was a simple matter to cut out the parts. This method is far more accurate than trying to lay the patterns over the wood and use sighting holes (my previous approach) and only relies upon the pattern for the curves. 

Anyway, it felt good to get back to work on the boat. I will have to sand these two parts to shape and then wait until I get my next batch of lumber before I can finish the other frame parts. That should be by next week sometime.

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  1. I have been drawing my frames from the blue prints using drafting paper. I discovered that you can buy serveral types of drafting paper and tracing paper pertty inexpensively until you get to the larger pieces. I have rolls of 40, 30, 24, 18 and 12 paper in 120 foot rolls far too much but worth the expense since i make lots of errors and changes. My plan once I have the complete frame mambers drawn and correctly positioned is to use spray glue and building templets out of thin fiber board. I do this when I build furniture and it works great. The drawings are glued to the fiber board and then when I cut the pieces out I screw the template, and frame member (both sides or all gussetts for one frame) and cut them on my band saw. I use the sander to fair the bottoms and sides of the pieces and don't worry too much about things that will be hidden. If I make a mistake I have the template to go back to to make a duplicate.

    1. Throughout this build, I've repeatedly done things in less than a productive manner. Not because I think badly of efficiency or other techniques. No, it's actually because I tend to go my own way on things and only afterwards learn of better ways to do things. So I learn while I'm doing but at the same time, I sometimes take a long time to get things done. Sigh!


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