Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

Saturday, December 21, 2013

Positioning The Last Frame Part 2

After thinking about the position of this frame some more and getting additional feedback from a couple of other Vera Cruise builders, I got to work defining positive locators to insure that it will be in the correct position. There were a few lingering concerns from my previous efforts so I decided to systematically look at each measurement.I also double checked overall dimensions of the frame assemblies to insure that any measurements taken from points on the frames, were in fact where they needed to be.

The only dimension that I cannot positively locate is the fore and aft position of the frame.As mentioned in the previous posting, this is completely dependent upon how it meets up to the chine and sheer parts. I am not comfortable with the idea of trusting the given fore and aft dimensions and gluing frame 6 into position.

So the plan is to install the sheer and chine temporarily and then slide the frame fore or aft whatever amount is necessary to get it to line up correctly. I am hoping this is going to work because I cannot think of any better way to accomplish this.

However, before I can do any of that, it was necessary to glue the stem to frame 5. This is a task I have been waiting do do since this summer. Significantly, this is the first time that the sub assemblies have been connected together. All the work I have been doing over the last several months has been fitting. The pictures below shows the stem after gluing into position. Two wood screws were also installed through the aft side of frame 5 into the stem.

 The front of the stem also needs to be locked down so that it doesn't shift as I add the sheer and chine parts.  I used two wood screws drilled through the breasthook and into the building form to accomplish this. These screws need to be long enough to stay in place with any lateral stress. But they also need to be accessible later after the skin is installed, the boat is flipped, and when I am ready to remove the building form from the boat (the building form will be flipped with the boat).

Since the curve of the sheer and chine towards the bow becomes quite severe forward of frame 5, I anticipate there will be some stress on that frame as I install these parts. Therefore, I added bracing between frame 5 and the building form. You can see that in the next picture.

As mentioned in the previous posting, frame 6 needs positive locators to insure it is in the correct position. The following series of photos illustrate what I am going to use. At the connection to the stem, there will be several flat pieces of wood clamped into position. These will all be covered in wax paper during the gluing process to keep them from being glued to the boat. Since the frame may have to shift fore or aft, these will be installed just prior to gluing after I have insured that frame 6 will properly meet the sheer and chine..

 To insure that the frame is the correct height vertically, I have a support that will be attached to the building form which the frame will rest upon. This support is already cut to the correct height. The support will also be used in centering the frame side to side as well as insuring that the frame remains perfectly vertical while epoxy cures.

In order to get the frame perfectly vertical, I am hanging a weighted drop string from the frame. This will line up with the lower part of the frame when it is in the proper alignment.

I will need to insure that the dimensions between frames 5 and 6 are the same on both sides (upper and lower). Hopefully, positioning the frame against the sheer and chine will accomplish this automatically, but I may need to tweak it a bit. I may add bracing similar to that used for frame 5 if necessary.

So here is frame 6 in it's tentative final position.

At this point, I need the lumber for the sheer and chine before I can proceed with gluing frame 6 into position. But I was able to do a bit of supplemental work on the keel parts. These need to transition from their 4 inch width to the 3 inch width of the stem. This was accomplished by cutting angles on the end of the stem. 

So I am now deciding if I want to try and work the transom while I save for the sheer and chine lumber. In order to move forward on the transom, I need to cut notches for the chine and sheer into the transom frame before I attach the plywood skin. If I elect to go this route, I will cover that in the next segment.

I am partial to doing this as it would be a significant accomplishment to get the transom skinned. It would also allow me to install the keels permanently. Once I have thought this through some more, I will make my decision. Until next time, take care.

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